How is facial correction done using cosmetics? Face correction with makeup: secrets, methods and main mistakes Facial correction schemes for makeup artists

Makeup

Contouring is the process of applying cosmetics to correct facial features. It involves the use of various decorative cosmetics. But to create a flawless make-up you need a good base. In order to prepare your face for correction using cosmetics, you only need 2 steps:

Cleanse your skin before applying makeup. If you monitor the condition of your skin, you will need minimal preparation for makeup. Use a soft scrub based on raspberry seeds or facial wash. To remove excess sebum from the face, you can wipe the skin with a cotton pad soaked in a mattifying facial toner. Be sure to complete the procedure by applying a moisturizer, because decorative cosmetics dry out the skin. To avoid clogging your pores, use products with a light texture.

Apply base product. BB, DD and EE creams can be considered the best for this stage. They even out skin texture and tone. If you have contrasting color imperfections, such as redness or bruising, use a concealer palette to cover them up.

Remember: all subsequent contouring products are applied directly to the base product and only after finishing the makeup are set with powder.

How can you correct facial features?

To correct facial features, you can use various cosmetics. Some of them are adapted directly for contouring, others initially have a different function, but also do an excellent job with correction.

Basic contouring kit contains:

Highlighter
Eyeshadow
Lip pencil
Transparent lip gloss

Depending on personal preferences, you can diversify the set with a tint, which also replaces blush, eyebrow pencil, eyeliner or face powder in various shades.

You will also need brushes to apply makeup. To correct the cheekbones and oval of the face, you will need an angled blush brush. A thin brush with an oblique cut of the bristles will help you change the shape of your eyes and straighten your eyebrows. Of course, the foundation of great makeup is always a blending brush. There should be two of them in your set: a large one for working with facial foundation and a small one for eye makeup.

The blending brush is denser than others, so it cannot be replaced with anything.

3 ways to correct the shape of your face

The perception of facial oval depends on the width and position of the cheekbones. To correct their natural shape, you can use one of three methods.

Regular contouring with bronzer and highlighter

Today, bronzer and highlighter are no longer perceived as exclusively professional cosmetics. They are used to create makeup by thousands of girls around the world.

High, prominent cheekbones are considered beautiful.

To enhance the natural features of your face, you need to apply highlighter to the cheekbones themselves, and bronzer underneath them. This will create additional shine and enhance the shadow, making the relief more obvious. Remember that these are quite dense products, most often with a creamy texture. To prevent makeup from looking vulgar, they must be shaded as much as possible. Makeup should consist of smooth transitions, then it will look natural.

The nuances of using blush

Blush looks much more natural than bronzer or highlighter. Thanks to their pigment, they make the face more vibrant.

If you apply blush to the apples of your cheeks, you can smooth out the contours of your face.

They can also be used to create shadow, just like bronzer. You just need to choose a blush that is 1-2 shades darker than the one you use for everyday makeup. Apply them under your cheekbones and blend thoroughly. Blush applied too tightly looks vulgar.

You can replace the crumbly product with a tint. This is a liquid pigment that is commonly used on lips. If you take just one drop of tint and apply it to your cheekbones, and then blend, you can get a very long-lasting makeup that is guaranteed not to distort throughout the day.

Such a different face powder

To make your face look smaller, you can create a combination of two different shades of powder. The lighter color should be applied to prominent facial features: the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, forehead and chin. The darker powder is applied along the contour of the face: along the jaw line and hair growth, and then carefully shaded towards the nose.

How to make a doll chin?

A beautiful face is often called “doll-like,” meaning small, chiseled features. The chin is no exception: too massive a jaw makes the face look rough.

To visually reduce your chin, you need to apply a small amount of highlighter to its middle, and add bronzer below. After careful blending, you will be able to focus on the narrowest part of the chin.

A similar procedure can be repeated with face powder of different shades or even Nude shades.

If your chin, on the contrary, seems too narrow to you, apply a light product over its entire area and blend thoroughly.

Makeup schemes for correcting the shape of the nose

Most often, when girls talk about the shortcomings of their appearance, they mention their nose. This explains the excessive popularity of rhinoplasty - plastic surgery to correct its shape. Fortunately, you can make your nose more neat without going under a scalpel. All you need is bronzer and highlighter.

To make your nose appear narrower, apply a little bronzer to the sides and highlighter along the bridge of your nose.

If your nose has a hump. it can also be disguised. A hump becomes noticeable if it creates an additional shadow in the relief of facial features. All you need to do is apply highlighter to the area of this shadow. Sometimes the skin on the hump has a different pigmentation and can look, for example, blue. In this case, a set of face correctors will help you.

A small amount of bronzer applied at the base of the nose will help straighten the upturned tip of the nose.

Several ways to put on lipstick

And even the shape of your lips can be changed using cosmetics. All you need are light and dark lip pencils, dark and light lipsticks, and clear gloss.

To make your lips look larger, you need to use a light or nude lipstick, and apply a simple transparent lip gloss on top.

Another technique for enhancing lips is using a light pencil. Apply some light kajal to the middle of your lips and blend well. You can apply any light lip gloss on top.

Applying dark lipstick in the corners and light lipstick in the middle of the lips will help reduce a mouth that is too wide. If you swap the accents, you can get the opposite effect.

You can change the contours of your lips by “going beyond” while using kajal or lipstick. There is nothing wrong with cosmetics that go a little beyond the natural contours. This way you can smooth out the shape of the upper lip or, for example, enlarge it. To become more familiar with the different ways to apply lip liner, check out the diagram below.

Secrets of an attractive look

To make your eyes attract attention, you don’t have to use provocative black shadows. You can make your look attractive without going beyond the nude style in makeup. The main thing is to pay attention to details.

You will need dark and light nude eye shadow, white or light nude eye shadow, eyebrow pencil and shadow, and a small angled brush.

How to properly make up your eyebrows?

Eyebrow makeup is in fashion today. It is no longer enough to simply shape them with tweezers. After the appearance of top models, whose features are thick eyebrows, for example Cara Delevingne, hypertrophied naturalness became popular. Unfortunately, not everyone has naturally wide and thick eyebrows.

In any case, eyebrow makeup should begin with correcting their shape. To do this, you need to comb them, and then remove any hairs that stand out from the general mass using tweezers and nail scissors. After this, you can proceed to applying decorative cosmetics.

You can adjust the shape of your eyebrows using special shadows and a pencil. To give them just a little color, just apply the product along the lower hairline, and then blend it upward with a brush.

Places where hairs are missing for some reason can be filled in with thin lines that will imitate them. To do this, you need to sharpen the cosmetic pencil or use a damp brush with an oblique edge. Follow the natural direction of growth of your eyebrows and try to ensure that the added hairs do not stand out from the general mass.

To make your eyebrows look clearer, line them above and below with a light pencil and shade it well. The contrast between the dark brow line and the light skin line will visually make the brow line appear smoother.

To fix the makeup, you need to use a special eyebrow gel or wax. In fact, many makeup artists have found a simpler solution to the problem. They use regular glue stick. It firmly secures the shape of the eyebrows, does not harm the skin, and at the same time costs much less than specialized products.

Eyebrow shaping is a much more complex and subtle process than it seems. To learn how to create perfect eyebrows, check out this detailed video on this topic.

Master class on eyebrow shaping:

Correction of eye shape in natural makeup

Corrective makeup is based on various combinations of dark and light accents. If you already know schemes, for example, for evening eye makeup that suit you, you just need to replace unnatural colors with flesh tones in the desired range (light or dark). If not, the first thing you need to do is determine the shape of your eyes using a table.

A dark accent on the inner corners will help narrow wide-set eyes. Apply nude eyeshadow two shades below your natural skin color. Light shadows should be applied to the outer corners of the eyes and the upper eyelid.

To create close-set eyes, place light shadows on the inner corners and carefully blend them towards the outer corner of the eyes.

Pulling makeup will help lift the drooping corners of the eyes. To do this, apply dark shadow to the outer corner of the eye and blend it towards the outer tip of the eyebrow.

You can lower the outer corners of your eyes by applying dark shadows next to them at the level of the inner corner.

To correct deep-set eyes, it is enough to neutralize the shadow in the crease of the eyelid with light shadows.

Dark shadows extending the eyeliner line beyond the outer corners of the eyes will help lengthen the round shape of the eyes.

Don't forget to apply a high-quality eye makeup base - it will help the shadows not to crumble or crease throughout the day.

Every appearance is unique and it is very important to learn to love yourself. But, if some feature of your face makes you feel insecure or uncomfortable, it can be corrected with makeup. Buy high-quality cosmetics, convenient tools, and let makeup become a pleasant means of self-expression.

Is there anything about your appearance that bothers you? Do you correct this and, if so, how? Share your reviews of the concealers in your makeup bag.

According to generally accepted canons, a face with a regular oval shape can be called ideal. If you are not lucky enough to become the owner of one, modern cosmetics will help you visually hide flaws and highlight your advantages.

In everyday life there is not always enough time for full makeup, and many girls limit themselves to applying mascara and lip gloss.

But for special occasions, such as a party or a business meeting with business partners, it is worth making time for corrections with makeup to look irresistible.

Strobing

Contouring

Today experts use the following techniques:

Strobing. It consists of highlighting individual areas or the entire face. At the same time, it looks natural. To do this, use cosmetics with shining particles, for example, pearlescent makeup bases. They are applied to the cheekbones, bridge of the nose, chin, and the area around the lips.
Contouring. It involves highlighting the relief of the skin through the use of dark and light tones. The main task of contouring is to make the face more voluminous. To do this, the natural depressions are slightly hidden and the protruding parts are highlighted.
Clown contouring. The master corrects color and shape using creamy textures. Color correction is achieved by darkening the oval, wings of the nose and the area under the cheekbones and lightening the top of the cheekbones, forehead and bridge of the nose. It is not suitable for everyone, as it involves the use of a large amount of cosmetics and does not always look natural.
Baking. Powder and concealer create a smooth surface. At the same time, the layers of powder and concealer turn out to be impressive, so the technique is more suitable not for everyday life, but for photo shoots.

Clown contouring

Baking

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Correcting the shape of the face using makeup - technique

For each type of face, makeup artists use certain techniques.

Correcting a square face with makeup

The master’s task is to make the lines softer and more graceful, and correct rough features. To do this, use a base of two shades and create curved lines to soften the forehead.

A dark base is applied to the parts that need correction, and a light base is applied to those areas that need to be highlighted. The eyes, chin and middle of the forehead are covered with light powder. Blush is applied to the cheekbones in the shape of a triangle and shaded.

Correcting an oval face with makeup

An oval face, as mentioned above, is considered almost ideal, so it does not require any special changes. If the oval seems too elongated, you can apply a little darkening agent to the chin and upper forehead.

Correcting a round face with makeup

Here the task is to visually lengthen and stretch the contours. To do this, temples, cheekbones, and sides are treated with shading. Apply highlighter in the center of the forehead, under the eyes, and on the chin.

Correcting a long face with makeup

The main task is to visually correct a high forehead and elongated chin. To do this, the lower part of the chin and forehead near the hairline are darkened, and a highlighter is applied to the prominent area of the cheekbones to brighten it up. Blush is applied in the form of a comma or an oval, slightly extending it towards the temples.

Sculpting a triangular face with makeup

Features of this shape are a narrow chin and a wide forehead. To hide them, the cheekbone from the top of the ears to the central part of the cheeks is darkened, and a light tone is applied to the area under the eyes, the center of the forehead and the contours of the mouth. Blush is applied to the center of the cheeks.

Foundations for correcting facial contours

Depending on the task at hand, it is possible to use the following tonal means:

1. Matte

Removes oily shine due to its special composition. It contains silicon additives, algae extracts, and no oils. Absorb excess sebum, tighten pores, hide inflammation.

2.With wet skin effect

Used to create wet-look makeup. To obtain a “living” glow, foundations with a creamy texture with special reflective particles are used. The effect lasts only for a few hours, so it is used mainly for studio photography.

3.With a lifting effect

They allow you to make the oval clearer, tighten and rejuvenate. Used as anti-aging cosmetics.

4.Translucent

Evens out tone and gives natural radiance. If the composition includes reflective granules, it will be possible to hide enlarged pores, pimples, and dark circles.

5.For photos

“Founders” with a dense texture are used to hide any imperfections that will definitely be noticeable in the camera lens. To get high-quality photos, makeup artists recommend using a product one tone darker than your color. The use of several shades of foundation is also actively practiced.

6.Nutritional

They solve two problems at once - adjust the tone and moisturize. They have a light consistency, contain nutritional components, and hide imperfections.

7.With Sanskrin

Provide protection from ultraviolet rays and photoaging, prevent the appearance of premature wrinkles.

How to choose a palette for face correction

For many girls, the correction technique is still new, so it may be difficult to choose the first palette, that is, a contouring kit.

They contain different shades that can be used individually or mixed with each other.

Avoid reddish-orange tones, they look unnatural.
The key shade in the palette should be 2-3 shades darker than your color. And it’s even better if it doesn’t contain shimmer or pearl. At first, it will be easier to create the perfect tone with matte products.
Don't buy highlighter with large particles. It should also be slightly lighter than your tone.

VIDEO DESCRIPTION

Popular palettes from famous manufacturers

Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour Kit– professional set with six shades. Dark ones will create a pleasant tanning effect, while light ones will highlight individual areas and hide oily shine. They have a powdery texture and apply easily in an even layer. Can be used as eye shadow.
Smashbox is an indispensable assistant for creating a smooth oval using three shades and the angled brush included in the set. The manufacturer also included detailed instructions for using the palette in different techniques.
Maybelline Master Sculpt is a set of highlighter and sculpting powder. In addition to the set, the manufacturer included a wide brush and a mirror.
MAC Concealer palettes is a professional palette, available in four different palettes. The composition includes antioxidants and can be used for any skin type. The colors can be mixed with each other; due to the creamy texture, they apply evenly and do not clog pores.

Thus, using ready-made kits or individual tools, you can visually correct face of any shape, highlight advantages and hide minor shortcomings.

The image of an attractive woman does not depend on age and consists of many components, one of which is her well-groomed face. According to all the canons of beauty, the ideal face is one that has a regular oval shape.
Those women who do not have an oval face shape should not be upset. Correction of the face with the help of makeup is quite accessible to them, that is, visually bringing it closer to an oval shape. Let's consider the main directions of such correction.

Facial correction products

Facial correction that occurs using makeup is also called light-and-shadow correction. It is based on the use of special products of dark or light color, thanks to which some parts of the face stand out and others are hidden.

Dark colors visually distance and reduce areas of the face, while light colors, on the contrary, enlarge and expand them.
This is how the new facial oval is modeled. The main means for such correction are:

Foundation;

blush;

powder;

special pencils;

concealers.

The basis of any makeup, and especially modeling, is foundation. It is designed to perform several important functions:

give the face the desired shade;

ensure surface evenness;

hide flaws;

create a foundation;

protect from ultraviolet radiation.

It is important to know that the foundation should be slightly lighter than your skin tone or blend in with it. A pale complexion can be corrected with a peach or apricot-colored cream. But a foundation with a pink tint will be useful for those who have an earthy complexion.
Another important means of facial correction is blush. They allow you to model any look, balance and revive your makeup, and give your face a healthy look. They are selected according to the existing skin tone: they should be two shades darker.
Women's favorite facial care product is powder, which can:
correct complexion;

disguise various irregularities;

remove oily shine from the face;

protect facial skin from harmful environmental influences;

fix the basic makeup.

A golden shade of powder is suitable for a tanned complexion, a peach shade for a milky-white complexion, and a beige shade for a pink complexion.
Corrective pencils and concealers can well hide various small facial skin imperfections. The latter are products of various shades, having a creamy or solid structure, capable of reliably masking not only various types of redness and skin damage, but also dark circles under the eyes.

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Face shape correction

There are 5 main face shapes:
oval;

round;

square;

triangular, with apex at the bottom;

triangular, with apex at the top.

It will be different for each form. You should consider the main accents that you need to pay attention to when applying it.
The ideal face shape is based on classical ideas of beauty, taking its origins from Ancient Greece.
Such a face has an oval symmetrical shape, the distance between the eyes is equal to the width of the lower part of the nose and the width of the eyes, the upper lip should be slightly larger than the lower. Looks perfect in photos and video shooting and is not subject to correction.
A face whose width is almost equal to its height is considered round. Correction of a round face consists of visually stretching it from top to bottom.
To do this, it is necessary, using the means indicated above: foundation, blush and powder, to lighten the central part of the face, namely: the chin, nose, the front of the cheekbones and the central part of the forehead, and give its lateral parts a darker tone.
The right way to complete an image with a round face is straight hair and clothes with a V-neck.
has a massive lower jaw and a wide forehead with clearly defined “angles” in the lower and upper parts of the face. These “outstanding” elements should be somewhat reduced, shading them with correction means.
The middle part of the face is highlighted, and the cheekbones are highlighted with blush. The look can be completed with a layered hairstyle and a deep neckline.
A triangular face with an apex at the bottom has a pointed chin and a wide forehead. In this case, face correction with makeup is carried out as follows: a dark tone is applied to the protruding lower part of the chin, to the corners of the forehead, and the center of the face is made lighter. In this case, a lush hairstyle that hides a heavy forehead is suitable.
Correcting a triangular face shape with a peak at the top using makeup looks like this: the emphasis is on bright, juicy lips, emphasizing the cheekbones and eyes. A voluminous hairstyle that hides the forehead is suitable.

All women strive for beauty, but nature has not endowed all with impeccable facial features. Facial correction with makeup performed by professional makeup artists will come to the rescue. This technique can be learned and applied independently.

What is an ideal face?

Facial features should be like this:

On an ideal face, you can visually draw three horizontal stripes of equal width (with borders along the eyebrow line and the tip of the nose).
The perfect face shape is an oval. The width and length of this ellipse have a ratio of 2:3.
The distance between the inner corners of the eyes is equal to the length of 1 eye.
Ideally, the length of the lips is equal to the distance between the pupils of the forward looking gaze.

Few people can boast of standard facial features, in which case corrective makeup comes in handy.

Correcting the face with makeup is comparable to artistic art. A makeup artist, like an artist with a brush, applies certain strokes.

Corrective makeup is the application of dark and light accents to certain areas of the face using special cosmetics, thanks to which the oval shape of the face, eyes, lips and nose approaches the ideal.

Corrective products for the face

Corrective cosmetics are designed to hide imperfections and skin defects, for example, dark and age spots, acne, unevenness, etc. Here are the main ones:

Concealer contains a large amount of pigment, so it covers up blemishes on the skin better than foundation. Can be used as a base for eye shadow. If its tone matches your skin tone, concealer should be applied over foundation. In the case when it is one tone lighter, it is applied under the foundation.
Color correctors are special concealers that mask redness, age spots and pimples by neutralizing color.

In turn, color correctors are as follows:

The green corrector is designed to mask red defects: dilated blood vessels on the nose, pimples, red spots.
The yellow corrector is used to level out dark circles under the eyes. Gives the skin a warm tone.
Peach and apricot correctors make the natural skin tone cooler and more pronounced.
The orange corrector works just like the yellow one, in addition it camouflages dilated veins.
Pink corrector removes yellow skin tone and hides green bruises.
Purple and blue concealers correct skin color after unsuccessful use of self-tanning, and also mask age spots and marks from insect bites.
White corrector is mixed with other concealers when choosing the ideal tone. In addition, it can be used to lighten and highlight certain areas of the skin, creating a “porcelain face”.

First you need to determine the shape of your own face. There are oval, round, square, diamond-shaped, trapezoidal, triangular and rectangular faces. There are also mixed types, then the face belongs to the type whose features are dominant.

Correction of face oval

Makeup artists conventionally divide faces into wide and narrow. In turn, wide faces come in square, round and trapezoidal shapes. Narrow faces come in triangular, diamond, elongated and rectangular shapes.

Stand in front of a mirror and try to determine your own face shape. Then outline an imaginary oval. All parts of the face that extend beyond the outer border of the oval require coverage with foundation several shades darker than the natural color of your skin: forehead along the hairline, temples, sides of the cheeks and the lower edge of the chin. And the protruding facial features inside the oval are highlighted with a lighter foundation. In this way, facial structuring is achieved.

Initially, moisturizer is applied to the skin of the face - this is the basis of makeup. When it is a little absorbed, lightly patting movements with a damp sponge smooth out the skin of the face using a foundation of your shade. Concealing cosmetics hide dark circles under the eyes, pimples and blemishes.

A perfectly oval face shape is rare and does not need correction.
Those with a long face (with a high forehead and a prominent chin) require visual shortening. To do this, use a foundation slightly darker than your natural skin color. It is applied to the upper part of the forehead and the tip of the chin. The color border is well shaded. To make the face proportional, blush is applied to the line connecting the dimple on the cheek to the temple, visually expanding the face.
A diamond-shaped face, in addition to a high forehead and prominent chin, has noticeable raised cheekbones that need to be smoothed. In this case, you need a foundation that is a tone lighter (highlight) and a tone darker than your skin. The highlight is applied to the central part of the forehead, under the eyes and on the chin, and the outer part of the cheekbones is shaded with a dark foundation. Blush is applied in a triangle to the cheekbones under the eyes.
A trapezoidal face has a heavy jaw and the lower part is wider than the upper part. Dark stripes of foundation are applied to the entire side of the cheeks - from the chin to the eyes. Use a light foundation to lighten the central sector of the forehead and chin. When applying makeup, they try to increase the distance between the eyebrows. The blush starts from the convex part of the cheeks and goes down to the ear.
The triangular face is wide at the cheekbones and forehead, narrowing towards the chin. A dark tone is applied to the temples and sides of the cheekbones, narrowing the disproportionately wide upper part of the face. Lighten the chin, center of the forehead and side surface of the jaw. Blush covers the upper part of the cheekbones.
The contours of a rectangular face need to be smoothed, since the upper and lower parts of the face are equal in width. The chin and central part of the forehead are highlighted, and the lateral areas of the forehead and lower jaw are darkened.
The shape of a square face is not much different from a rectangular one. There is no pronounced elongation here, so corrective makeup is done in the same way. In this case, the darkening extends along the entire lateral surface from the forehead to the chin (including the middle of the cheeks). Light foundation is applied to the forehead, chin and under the eyes. The blush starts under the eyes and blends towards the mouth.
A round face most often has a wide forehead and an undefined chin. The length and width of the face are approximately the same. This shape needs lengthening and visual reduction of the cheeks. A light highlight is applied to the central sector of the forehead and chin. The sides from the forehead to the chin are shaded. Blush is applied in a triangle directed towards the corner of the mouth.

To visually change the shape of the nose and correct its length, dark and light accents are used. A thin strip of light color is applied to the protruding part (back) of the nose. Stripes of a dark shade are applied to the sides adjacent to this strip. Thus, a thinning of the nose is achieved.

If you don't like the shape of the tip of your nose, hide it with dark strokes: this technique even helps with curvature and hump.

A long nose is corrected by applying a dark foundation to the lower third.

After working with color shades, powder your face a little. Ideally, you need to have powder of a similar color range with foundation, that is, three types. Next, complete makeup of the eyes, eyebrows and lips is done.

At the end, lightly powder your face with a brush with loose powder of your color and highlight with highlighter the area under the eyebrow, the inner corner of the eye, the line above the upper lip, the chin and the areas on the cheekbones under the eyes. Mother of pearl under the eyebrow and on the inner corner of the eye gives the effect of an open and more expressive look.

The emphasis on the upper lip makes the mouth seductive. The shine on the chin visually sharpens it and pulls it forward. This facial sculpting makes the makeup look radiant. In fact, a highlighter is a shimmer, shadow or shimmering powder that matches your skin tone (or is one tone lighter). For pale skin, white pearlescent blush can serve as a highlighter, and for dark-skinned people, golden shimmering powder is suitable. Thanks to makeup and cosmetics, it is quite possible to change the shape of your face, albeit visually.

The French word maquillage originates from the Latin noun macula - stain and literally means "drawing spots, staining." If we enter this word into an online translator from French, we will see an unexpected, but essentially very accurate answer: “to compose.”

After all, the art of makeup means modeling, creating a visual picture from shades of dark and light tones, additional colors and lines! It is based on the fact that dark tones visually reduce, narrow and deepen surfaces and details, while light tones expand, make convex and emphasize. How this happens is clearly shown in the video:

General rules

Correcting the face with makeup begins with modeling its shape and evening out the skin tone: this is how an artist, when creating a picture, first primes the canvas, sketches general plans, and only then begins to draw details. Our “primer” will be moisturizing and foundation creams: liquid cosmetics are well absorbed and evenly cover the skin, smoothing out minor cosmetic defects. Powder and blush will help create a “general plan”. Powder, foundation and blush must be carefully and carefully shaded!

The main shade of foundation or corrector should be as close as possible to the natural skin tone, modeling ones should be lighter and darker. Areas that need to be lightened are designated as “highlight” in photos and makeup diagrams, and those that are recommended to be darkened are designated as “contour.”

According to the general rule of facial modeling, protruding areas are highlighted (middle of the forehead, under the eyes, cheekbones, midline of the nose and chin). The rest is darkened by shading the contour from the middle of the face to the hairline.

You need to apply cosmetics in good lighting, and it is better if it is a fluorescent lamp. Pleasant to the eye, yellow and warm white light distorts some colors, and on the street the complexion may look too faded or bright, and blush, eye shadow or lipstick will change the shade.

Correcting the shape of the face

An oval face is considered the most pleasing to the eye, and therefore most beautiful. The ratio of horizontal and vertical lines drawn through its contours is approximately 2:3. Sometimes such faces require almost no adjustment, just apply foundation and even out the skin tone.

But if you have an elongated, round, square, rectangular or triangular (“heart”) face, too high cheekbones (“diamond”), or a heavy chin (trapezoid, or “pear”), its shape needs to be corrected. Draw your face the way you want it to be!

Round faces

Oval. Women with regular faces also don’t always like themselves in the mirror - some people think that her cheekbones are too wide, others are upset by her “sharp chin.” Correcting an oval is easier than other shapes. Highlight the central area of the forehead, the area under the eyes and the chin, and apply a dark contour to the temples and cheekbones (in a triangle from the top of the earlobe to the edge of the lips). Highlight the apples of your cheeks and cheekbones with blush.

An elongated, elongated face is visually rounded with a dark contour: the upper part of the forehead under the hair and the edge of the chin need to be darkened, a slightly less dark tone is applied to the temples and cheekbones. But the side edges along the entire circumference of the face are highlighted in a light tone. The blush is applied with horizontal, wide movements of the brush - then the face will appear wider and more proportional.

A round face, on the contrary, needs to be “stretched out”, visually reducing the cheeks. Darken your temples, cheekbones, sides of your face, apply a light tone to your chin, the middle of your forehead and under your eyes. Blush is applied to the cheekbone line.

"Polygons"

The rectangle and square are smoothed, bringing it closer to an oval: a dark tone is applied in a symmetrical triangle: top/bottom, right/left: from the edges of the lips to the ears. The forehead, area under the eyes, chin and bridge of the nose are slightly lightened. The apples of the cheeks are covered with blush and applied along the cheekbones. The only difference between drawing on a rectangular and square face is that in the second case you will need more dark tone, but the general scheme will remain the same.

Rhombus. High cheekbones are stylish and can often be seen in photos from high fashion shows. But if this image does not suit your character, sharp cheekbones can be smoothed out. A triangular outline on them will make them smaller; a light tone is applied to almost the entire forehead, and, if necessary, to the corners of the jaw (you will see for yourself whether this is necessary). Blend the blush from the temples downwards with not very wide strokes - from the temples towards the edges of the lips.

Trapezium (“pear”, face with a heavy jaw). To visually align the lower and upper halves of the face, the cheekbones are darkened with a contour and blush is applied in broad strokes. The central part of the forehead is highlighted with a highlight, a light tone is also placed under the eyes, on the bridge of the nose, and if the lips are small, in the corners of the lips. The chin can be reduced by darkening the corners of the jaw - the contour is applied in a triangle from the corners of the lips to the ears.

Triangle (“heart”, “cat’s face”). Here your task is to visually widen the narrow chin and narrow the too wide forehead. A contour is placed on the temples and side edges of the cheekbones, and the disproportionately wide upper part of the face will appear narrower. A light highlight is applied to the central area of the forehead, under the eyes, on the chin and near the corners of the jaw. Blush is shaded along the top of the cheekbones.